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June 2006 - Casting

The number one reason people don't catch more fish on my boat is their lack of casting skill. This factor is far
above any other. I find most people have never found the need to cast to a specific spot. When it comes to
flats fishing, especially sight fishing, the ability to quickly and accurately cast to a fish can make or break your
day. People often tell me they want to go to Mosquito Lagoon and catch big redfish. More times than not, we
find these big fish in 2-3 feet of water. These schools can contain over one hundred fish and may be less than
fifty feet from the boat. We attach a live bait of choice to the hook and I put the angler in position to make a
cast. This sounds like a simple enough scenario and it would seem that a trophy sized redfish is almost
guaranteed. On some days it takes hours to catch just one fish. Some days, we get none. Other anglers catch
two fish in less than five casts. The deciding factor is the ability of the angler to place the bait in front of the
school with precision. Whether it is the big redfish along the edges of flats, a single slot sized red in 15 inches
of water, or a trophy seatrout sunning in a shallow sand hole, one factor remains the same. These fish have
little tolerance for an errant cast. If the bait lands next to them, they will scatter. If it lands to the side or behind
them, it will go ignored. Learning to do this takes practice and the time to develop this skill is not when you are
staring 100+ redfish in the face.
To improve your success on the flats, practice your casting skills before you get on the water. Learning to use
your index finger to control the line and casting from a sidearm or 3/4 position will allow you to make casts that
are much more precise than an uncontrolled overhand toss. Sight casting depends on knowing exactly when to
let your index finger off the line during the cast to allow the bait or lure to follow the path you desire. Learning to
factor in the effects of wind on your cast is also a skill that needs to be practiced. Casting directly into or with
the wind is relatively easy, Casting with a wind from either side can be tricky. If you have a wind from the side
and cast to where see the fish, it will be blown off target every time. Only by experimenting in different wind
conditions will you become proficient.
Make every cast a practice cast. Even when you are "blind casting" pick out a specific location and cast to it.
That makes each cast a practice cast. Some people tell me they do not fish on the shallow water flats and do
not need sight casting skills. I disagree. No matter what type of fishing you do, the ability to cast accurately will
improve your catching ratio. Even in dirty of off colored water, you may see predators chasing baitfish to the
surface. If you cannot cast to that location, you miss those chances. Many fish live around docks and mangrove
trees. If you cannot get your baits under the docks or overhanging trees, the fish may show no interest.
The ability to cast far, conventional and fly angling alike, is a distant second to the need for short distance
accuracy. Many of the fish we cast to are less than forty feet from the boat. These spooky, shallow water fish
often give you only one shot at them before they flee.
Set out some targets in you yard and spend a few minutes per week practicing your casting accuracy. I
guarantee you will see an improvement in you catching success.


July 2006 - Casting: Part 2

“10 o’clock, forty feet,” says the voice from the poling platform. The angler on the bow scans the water and replies, “I got
‘em”. The tailing red is seemingly unaware of the skiff. The first cast lands at 9 o’clock, 30 feet. “Get it in quick, try him
again,” says the voice. The angler reels in only to find a clump of grass attached to the hook of his soft plastic. After
cleaning off the grass, the angler fires of a second cast. The cast goes exactly forty feet at exactly ten 0’clock, right on
the money. A huge boil of water erupts and the fish bolts across the flat, free. A little too much on the money, the lure
landed right on his back.

Casting. The most basic skill of fishing. Yet all of us have witnessed the above scenario from one, if not both positions.
Casting ability, or the lack thereof, is the biggest factor when it coming to catching fish on the flats, especially when sight
fishing. Most anglers would not think of picking up a fly rod with no previous experience or practice yet they will grab a
spinning rod and head out to the water without hesitation. If most of us think back, the extent of our instruction on how to
use a spinning outfit probably went something like this. “Flip open the bail while pinching the line against the rod with
your finger. Pont the rod to the rear and sling it forward while letting go of the line held by your finger.” While that is the
basics of spinning rod operation and will result in a few fish if tossing dead bait on the bottom, it is far from the skills
required to be an accurate sight caster. Much of flats fishing is done in water less than three feet deep to fish that are
easily spooked by foreign objects attacking them from above. Having the ability to make casts that are accurate may
make the difference between just seeing fish and catching them.

There are several skills involved in casting a spinning outfit that are more easily demonstrated than written about but I
will do my best to offer a few of them here.

Have the right line  - All fishing lines are not created equal and size does matter. Trying to cast a five inch soft plastic
jerk bait into the wind with 17 pound test mono is not something I would want to do on a regular basis. For flats fishing,
mono of 6-10 pound test will allow you to land most any fish you will encounter. The lighter line is more supple and cast
much more easily than that of larger diameter. Even better, try one of the braided lines. A braided line of ten pound test
commonly has the diameter of 2-3 pond mono. The thinner diameter and slick surface coating will increase casting
distance with less effort.

Learn line control – Many anglers attempt to place their lures on different targets by adjusting the force with which they
move the rod. Once the lure begins to move, these anglers can only hope they moved the rod with just the precise
amount of force was necessary to put the lure in the desired location. Although I am sure, with much practice, one could
become an accurate caster with this method, there is a much simpler way. Line control. As we all know, the forefinger of
the hand holding the reel is used to pinch the line against the rod when the bail is opened. When the rod is about half
way through the cast, the finger is moved and the line is free to fall off the spool. It’s what you do with your finger after
this that matters most. To control your line and, as a result, how far your cast will go, you simply allow the line to lightly
touch your finger around the first knuckle. The more you move your finger towards the rod the more pressure you apply
on the line and your lure will slow down. Using this method, one can cast with full force yet stop the lure in an instant by
catching the line in the fold of you first knuckle. By applying this technique, errant casts can be stopped short and casts
made in the desired direction can be caused to land exactly where you want them.  For right handed casters, if you find
your cast is going far to the right of your intended target, you are releasing your finger too early. If you are landing too
far to the left, you are holding on a bit too long.

No Rainbows – Many inexperienced anglers make the infamous “rainbow cast”. The rod is held nearly straight up and
down, is brought behind them until it parallel to the ground and then thrown in an overhead arc launch the lure high into
the air. If the lure and line could be frozen just before it hits the water, the line forms a beautiful rainbow shape.
Rainbows are nice to look at but not very efficient when applied to casting. When the lure hits the water and the excess
line drops down, an excessive amount of slack is now present. This slack must be taken up onto the reel before the lure
can begin to move. If fishing in heavy grass, the lure will often settle into the weeds while the slack is being retrieved. I
find that casting from the sidearm of three quarter position will usually solve this problem.

Let the rod work for you -  Making repeated cast throughout the day can be tiresome, especially for those who only get
to fish occasionally. To lessen fatigue and to avoid spooking fish in shallow water, you want to cast with the minimum
amount of movement necessary. Let the properties of the fishing rod and physics do the work for you instead of your
arms. Keep you elbows near your sides, and grip the rod with one hand at the reel seat and the other near the bottom
of the rod. Make your cast with a sharp snapping motion with the wrists. Using this technique will keep your body
movement to a minimum and will prevent your arms from tiring.

Practice, practice, practice. Casting is a skill that, like many others, must be practiced to obtain a high level of
proficiency. The time to practice your casting is at home, not on the water when the fish are all around the boat.
Improving your casting accuracy is the one thing I will guarantee will allow you to catch more fish. It is much more
important than any “secret lure” or bait. A simple white bucktail jig in the hands of a skilled caster will catch more fish
than the hottest new lure used by someone who cannot put it in from to the fish. Practicing your casting in the wind is
also something few never do. Fishing cannot always be done when the weather is perfect. Being able to judge and
compensate for the wind’s effects on a lure as it flies through the air is also something that must be practiced.

Learn to improve your casting skills and you will catch more fish – guaranteed.






March, 2006 - Landing and releasing fish
Catching the fish is half the battle. When you get it up to the boat, it will either go into the cooler or be released.
The majority of fish you catch will be released. Knowing how to do this properly will ensure the survival of the
fish and result in better catching in the future. The use of circle or barbless hooks will aid in the release process
Using barbless hooks will also prevent a trip to the hospital should a hook wind up in the angler instead of the
fish.
First, handle all fish to be released gently. Fish are covered in a slime that protect them from infections.
Contact with dry human hands, certain types of nets, and the decks of boats can result in the removal of this
slime and the death of the fish later on. Heaving the fish over the side and onto the bottom of the boat is a sure
way to lower the fish's chance of survival. Recently, many types of lip gripping devices have been made.
Although these tools have their use, hanging a fish by the jaw for photographing and weighing, has recently
been found to cause damage to the tendons and muscles of certain species of fish which can prevent them
from eating. Although the fish may seem to swim away healthy, if it has sustained such damage, it will slowly
die. Fish are also designed to survive in an environment where the water supports their weight. Out of water,
the fished organs can shift especially when held vertical again resulting in a slow death. If you are going to use
a lip gripper tool, use it told hold the fish's head steady while you remove the hook, preferably with the fish still
in the water. If you do remove the fish from the water, support the tail area with a wet hand and hold the fish
horizontally. For non-toothy fish, a bare or gloved hand can perform the same task as a lip gripping tool.

A hook removing tool is also useful when releasing fish. The toll will prevent you from having to handle the fish
and gets it back into the water quickly. It is especially helpful when handling fish such as bluefish, catfish,
mackerel, trout, and other toothy species. I recommend styles such as:

http://www.coastalanglermagazine.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=40

http://store.tackletogo.com/ststfihoex.html















Some fish are worthy of a picture. If you are going to photograph your fish, keep it in the water until the camera
person is ready. Support the fish horizontally with both hands and return it to the water as soon as possible.
The fish has just fought with all its strength and cannot breathe out of the water. Imagine running up several
flights of stairs and them holding your breath. You can't do it for very long and neither can the fish.

Too many times, I have witnessed anglers mishandle fish and toss them back into the water. They act as if fish
are in a never ending supply. The amount of anglers is growing daily and fish are being caught faster than they
can reproduce. Both east and west coast Florida redfish stocks are declining. If they continue to do so, the
State may be forced to institute a partial or total closure on redfish. To avoid this, it is important that all fish to
be released are handled in a manner that will increase their chance of survival. It will also mean that the fish will
be there to catch another day. If everyone kept their bag limit of one redfish per day, during the course of a
week, 25 boats with two anglers could wipe out a school of 100 redfish. The redfish of Mosquito Lagoon breed
and spend their entire lives there. Once they are harvested, they are not likely to be replaced. Help keep our
fishery strong, handle your fish with care.



February 2006 - Circle Hooked Shrimp
One of my favorite lures for winter sight fishing is the DOA shrimp. When it is used straight out of the package,
however, it can pose two problems. First, they tend to catch a lot of grass. Second, the fish will hit them so
aggressively that many times they inhale the bait resulting in a more difficult hook removal. I have solved this
problem by removing the standard hook and putting the bait on a circle hook. This method makes it much
more weedless and the fish are hooked in the upper jaw or corner of the mouth making catch and release
much easier. I will first start out with the bait hooked in the head area like this:















After catching a few fish, the plastic will begin to crack and I simply switch the hook to the tail area like this:















Remember to set the hook by reeling up the slack and slowly lifting the rod tip. If you jerk back quickly, you will
miss the fish. Give this method a try next time you're using a DOA or similar soft plastic shrimp. You'll be
impressed with the results.

____________________________________________________________________________________

January 2006 - Tackle Maintenance
Fishing in a saltwater environment can be tough on your tackle. That's why care and maintenance of your
tackle is as important as selection of the proper gear. A lack of  maintenance can lead to broken line, locked
up drags and gears, pitted and corroded rod guides and other problems which all equate to lost fish. I have
several rods and reels in my personal collection which are over five years old and have been used solely in salt
water. By following a regular schedule of cleaning and maintenance, they still work as good as the day they
were purchased.

Reel care and maintenance

After every trip to the salt water, it is important to clean your reel. Failure to do so just one time may lead to
corrosion damage which cannot be repaired. Although many people use a light spray from the hose to wash
the salt off their reels, this can lead to water intrusion in the reels body which will break down the grease and
cause rust. Many reels do not have waterproof drag systems and spraying them with the hose is a sure way to
get water into your drag system. The method I prefer is to soak a towel and wipe off the entire exterior of the
reel. I ten use a second towel to dry the reel off. On those windy and rainy days when you're not fishing, spray a
light coat of pledge furniture polish on the exposed metal parts and buff with a clean towel to add a layer of
protection. I also will remove the spool and use a soft toothbrush to scrub away the dirt that collects in the
crevices inside the rotor. Carefully remove the roller bearing and apply a quality lubricating oil. Also apply a
small amount of oil to the shaft under the spool and to the handle pivot point. Keeping a bottle of oil in your
tackle bag comes in handy to stop those squeaky handles which sometime develop during a fishing trip.
If you are using braided line, it will not be necessary to change it more than once per year with normal use. To
get even more use from your braid, you can strip it down to the mono backing and switch it so that the ends
are reversed. For those still using mono, especially in the 6 and 8 lb class, I suggest changing it at least every
few months. A small nick will significantly weaken the line and can cause the loss of a fish. Mono is cheap and
the price of changing it is worth the heartache that comes with a big fish breaking off.

Rods

After each trip, wash the rod with fresh water using your hose. After washing, I prefer to store the rods
horizontally while drying. This prevents water and any residual salt from collecting at the point where the foot of
the guide meets the rod blank. I also apply a coat of wax to my rods from time to time. You can use pledge or
ordinary car or boat wax. The wax will help prevent fish scales and environmental contaminants from sticking.
A damaged guide can quickly part your line. A quick way to check your guides is to run and old piece of panty
hose through them. The hose will catch on any nicks.

Tackle

Ever put you favorite lure in your tackle box after a day's fishing only to find the hooks rusted the next time you
go to use it? Washing your lures in fresh water can prevent this but not many people are going to take the time
to do so. I have found that adding a Blue Vapor Mister to your tackle box will prevent the hooks from rusting.
You can find them at some tackle shops or at http://www.cotee.com/blue.htm .

Just a few minutes spent caring for you tackle will pay off big rewards. Your tackle will last much longer and you
will lose less fish. Good Fishing


August, 2006 - Barbless Hooks

If I ever want to see a dazed and confused expression on the faces of anglers on my boat I will ask them, “Have
you ever fished with barbless hooks?” Often times, I do not even get a reply but the look on their face says,
“What are you, crazy? Why would I want to do that?” Sometimes I take a more entertaining approach. I’ll allow
the angler to catch several fish on a debarbed hook and then point out the lack of a barb to them. Most are
utterly amazed and never considered that such a feat was possible. For everybody knows that barbs are on
hooks to keep the fish on, right? In reality, barbs were placed on hooks to keep the bait from sliding off. If you
are not using live bait, there is no need for a barb on your hook. The use of barbless hooks and proper fighting
techniques will result in more hookups and a much quicker release. While more anglers are practicing CPR
(catch photograph release), the majority of them are still using barbs on their hooks. Many times, I have
witnessed anglers who intend to release their catch spend minutes with a fish lying on the gunwale while they
attempt to remove the hook with a pair of pliers. Much too often, the result of this process is a fish that is
released with a badly damaged jaw or a gaping wound. The faster we can get the fish back into the water with
a minimal amount of trauma, the better its chance of survival. A hook with the barb mashed down, will
penetrate easier resulting in more hookups and makes releasing the fish a quick and easy process.

When I was fist introduced to the idea of fishing with a barbless hook over fifteen years ago, I had the same
questions and concerns as every angler would. It would seem that if the hook came out so easily with the fish
at boat side, then it could come out just as easily while fighting the fish. This theory is, in fact, true. The hook
can fall out before the fish is landed. There is, however, a simple way to prevent this. Keep tension on the line.
From the time you set the hook until the time you land the fish if you maintain a tight line, it is the bend of the
hook preventing the fish from escaping. Learn and practice this simple technique and you can land fish of any
size without a barb on your hook. I would also blame it on the barbless hook each time a fish got loose. Yet
everyone who has done any amount of fishing has lost one during the fight. That is just part of the sport and
sometimes cannot be prevented no matter what you do. If you decide to try this technique, do not be so quick
to blame it on the hook.

Barbless hooks are particularly useful when the catch and release action is fast and furious. Often times, when
other types of fishing are slow, you can find and catch schoolie trout or ladyfish on every cast. Many times,
these fish can be released at boat side simply by giving them slack and letting the hook fall out. If this fails to
work, you can usually grab the shank of the hook and pull it out without ever having to touch the fish. The more
small fish we release unharmed, the greater the number of big fish in the future.
The second advantage that barbless hooks offer is they are much easier to remove from anglers. A hook
embedded in an angler can result in, at worst, a trip to the hospital, or a fishing trip cut short. With no barb on
the hook, they can be removed from anglers without the need for some on the water surgery. Smashing the
barbs on treble hooks is standard practice on my boat. Many times, I have seen anxious anglers snatch the
plug away from a surface striking fish only to have the lure rocket back into the boat. Several sets of barbed
treble hooks in an angler’s scalp can put a quick end to a fishing trip.
So, next time you fish, use your pliers to mash down the barb on your hook and it’s probably the last time you’ll
need them all day.  

October 2006 - Mullet Time

October means the fall mullet run along the coast of east central Florida. Millions of these jumping food fish
head south along our coast ahead of the cold weather. Many will pass through the inlets and travel through the
lagoons. Redfish, trout, tarpon, snook, jacks, sharks, and bluefish are just some of the game fish that will be
filling up on the mullet. To take advantage of the action, use live mullet or an artificial mullet imitation. My
favorite is the DOA Bait Buster.









I like to use the shallow runner in water less than three feet deep and the deep runner for over three foot
depths. Cast the lure ahead of a cruising redfish and retrieve it on or just below the surface for some
spectacular strikes. If you are fishing live mullet, use a circle hook that is appropriate for the size of the fish you
are targeting. I prefer to hook my mullet in the top lip so that it will last for repeated casts. Some like to tail hook
the bait but it will die quickly if you have to make more than one cast because you are dragging it backward.
Surface plugs also work well this time of year.

November 2006 - Rigging Jerk Baits

There are tons of hooks on the market for rigging your soft plastic jerk baits. The standard worm hook is still
around as well as some which have a corkscrew device for holding the plastic. I have tried them all and my
favorite is the Mustad Power Lock Plus with a weight.












This hook has a plastic pin which is inserted into the head of the worm to hold it in place. It is quick and simple
to use. I prefer the weighted model so I can add distance to my cast and to ensure the bait gets to the bottom
quickly. I use sizes 2/0 - 5/0 with the 1/8 oz. weight.

February 2007 - Trophy Trout in Winter

Winter in central Florida means big trout time. When the water temperatures dip in to the 50's and 60's, the
large trout will invade the shallow sand holes in the Mosquito Lagoon and Indian River Lagoon seeking warmth
fro the daytime sun. Sight fishing for big trout is one of the most challenging adventures but it can be done.
Trophy sized seatrout in shallow water are some of the most wary fish I have encountered and must be
approached with extreme stealth. Trout are ambush feeders and are almost always lying motionless near the
grass. Their camouflage backs make them difficult to spot from a distance, even to the trained eye. If you see
a big trout on the move, it has probably taken notice of your presence and will rarely eat.

I prefer to use soft plastic jerk baits in shades of green, gold, or white. A second favorite of mine is a DOA
shrimp. With both lures, it is imperative your cast lands well beyond the fish. Drop it within several feet of them
and they will spook. When I spot a fish lying in a sand hole. I cast past the hole and quickly bring my bait to the
edge of the grass. You can then work your lure in one of two ways. Sometimes, you can swim the bait just
under the surface over the fish and they will rise to attack it. You can also let your lure drop to the bottom in the
sand and slowly crawl it along the bottom. Working your bait in a quick erratic motion will spook more fish than
it will catch. Big trout are the fastest fish the lagoon over short distances. While they do not often provide long
drag screaming runs, trout will run quickly when hooked. If they run towards the boat, reel as fast as you can to
keep the line tight.

For the non boating angler, or those fishing from kayaks or canoes, make long casts covering sandy holes
near the shoreline with the above baits. Look for areas holding mullet and the fish will be nearby. You will also
be rewarded with a few redfish in the same areas.

July 2007 - Fighting Techniques

We all enjoy fighting fish on light tackle. Summer, however, is not the time to be fighting large fish on the
ultralight outfit if you intend on releasing them. In addition to using the appropriate tackle, the manner in which
you fight the fish can greatly affect its chance of survival. As soon as the fish finishes the initial run, it is time for
you to begin recovering line. As long as the fish is not stripping line off your reel, you should be getting some
back. Even if it is only a few inches at a time, always try to regain line. Holding the rod still will result in a
prolonged stalemate. Eventually, the fish will tire but it may be too late. If you drag is set properly, you can put
an extraordinary amount of pressure on a big fish without fear of breaking your line.

Try to keep the fight time under fifteen minutes to minimize lactic acid buildup. Reel down until your rod tip is
just above the water and then apply steady side pressure as you pull back. Always begin to turn the handle at
the same time you lower the rod to avoid wrapping the line around your tip. Pull in a direction opposite of the
fish’s direction of travel. When the fish changes its direction of travel, switch the angle of you pull.

If you are going to take a photo of your catch, have some else get the camera ready while you are fighting the
fish.  Before I remove the fish from the water, I like to hold it boat side for a minute to let it regain some energy.
After the fish has had a chance to rest, lift it out of the water horizontally while supporting the head and body. A
simple rule of thumb is to keep the fish out of the water only as long as you can hold your breath. After a few
quick photos, place the fish back into the water while maintaining control of it until it is fully revived. This may
take a few seconds or a few minutes depending on the length of the fight. Once the fish is released, watch it to
make sure it swims away. On occasion, a fish appear to be revived but swim only a few feet away and roll over.

Take an extra bit of care of the fish in the hot weather months and they will survive to fight you another day.

August 2007 - Fishing Docks

If you are looking to add some variety to you light tackle adventures, head to the dock. The entire Indian River
Lagoon from Titusville to Stuart has docks of all sizes which can produce some great fishing for a wide variety
of species. While docks are well known for holding snook, they are also a haven for many other inshore fish.
Tarpon, flounder, snapper, grouper, trout, redfish, jacks, lookdowns, sheephead and bluefish, are just some of
those you may encounter under and around docks.

Docks provide shade and structure which attract bait fish. If you find docks holding schools of glass minnows,
pilchards, or mullet, there is a good chance there are gamefish nearby. Using soft plastic lures, when fishing
docks, will allow you to present the bait under the structure. Although it can be done, it is much more difficult to
cast a live bait under a dock without having it come off the hook. If you do manage to get a live bait under the
dock, they also have a tendency to quickly swim out from under it or to wrap your line around the pilings. Using
artificial baits can be just as effective and gives the angler much more control.

A ¼ ounce DOA shrimp is my lure of choice when fishing the docks. It can be skipped across the surface by
keeping the rod tip low and will reach into the areas where the fish are residing. Once you have skipped your
bait under the dock, allow it to fall all the way to the bottom. Many of the strikes will come on the drop. After
allowing it to rest for a couple seconds, work it back towards the boat with a series of short hops.

Since docks present the problem of barnacle encrusted pilings not found on the open flats, it is usually a good
idea to use tackle which is a bit more stout than the average flats fishing gear. I prefer a short rod with 20
pound braid ending in a piece of 30-40 pound fluorocarbon leader. The braid allows light lures to be cast
effectively but still gives you the ability to pull big fish out from under the structure

Fish may be found anywhere from the end of the dock all the way up to the section closest to the shore. While
traveling to the next dock, pay close attention as many times fish will be found in the open water between them.

While docks provide shade and shelter for fish during the day, lighted docks provide an irresistible attractor to
baitfish. Dock fishing at night and can provide some non stop action. Capt Duber Winters, of Stuart,
specializes in fly fishing dock lights at night. His technique begins with a stealthy approach to the dock light.
“Cast uptide of fish you see in the lights,” says Capt. Winters. “Allow the fly to swing through lighted water and
into the shadow lines. The bigger fish often are not visible and are hanging in the shadows.” Winters prefers
using a 6 or 7 weight flyrod with a clear sink tip line. A short piece of 25-30 pound fluorocarbon is attached to
the fly, which is usually small and sparsely dressed to imitate small shrimp or glass minnows. “A strip strike
should be used to set the hook,” Winters advises.

October 2007 - Braided Line


The popularity of braided fishing lines has increased dramatically over the past decade. There are dozens of
brands to choose from and sizes range from 2-100 pound test. There is a color for everyone from shades of
green to brown to his-vis yellow, clear, and red. Yet, even with all these choices, there are many anglers who
are still using monofilament lines. While the initial cost of braided line is much higher, the investment will pay
off in the long run. Braided lines will last much longer and can result in more hookups and fewer lost fish.

First, let’s examine the benefits of braid. These gel spun lines, commonly made of spectra fiber, allow you to
use a small diameter line with a high breaking strength. Ten pound test braid is the size of 2-3 pound
monofilament. Its smaller diameter allows you to put much more line on your spool and aids in making long
casts with light lures and baits. Another advantage of braid is the near zero stretch properties. Typical
monofilament can have between 15 and 20 percent stretch. If a fish bites 50 feet away, the angler may have to
overcome 10 feet of stretch in the line to set the hook. With braided lines, the hook set is instantaneous and
solid. The lack of stretch also improves sensitivity allowing the angler to feel the most subtle bites. Braided
lines are much more resistant to abrasion and damage from sunlight. Another advantage is their lack of
memory. Unlike monofilament, braided lines are far more resistant to line twist.

The most common complaint about braided line its ability to end up in a tangled mess anglers call “wind
knots”. If they are unable to be removed, these knots must be cut off and can quickly result in a $20 spool of
line ending up in the garbage. The number one cause of these knots is failing to close the bail by hand. Using
the reel handle to trip the bail can lead to a loop in the limp braid forming around the edge of the spool which
often goes unnoticed until the next cast. Use your hand to flip the bail closed and you will eliminate almost all of
those costly knots. Reeling up excessively slack line onto the spool can also result in knots when several wraps
of the loose braid jump off the spool at the same time. Raise you rod tip, if necessary, before beginning your
retrieve to maintain tension on your line.

For most flats fishing applications, 10 pound braid will provide and excellent combination of strength and
increased casting ability. Lighter braids will allow for longer casts but require more attention to line
management. Heavier lines will decrease casting length and is overkill for most inshore fish. When fishing for
snook around docks or targeting large tarpon, 20 pound braid will suffice. With all braided lines, be sure to use
more wraps in your knots than is required with monofilament. Tighten knots with slow steady pressure and
make certain the wraps appear neat and tight.
Tip of the Month by Mosquito Lagoon Fishing Guide Capt. Chris Myers